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Jamie's 10 Secrets to Happiness in Aomori

06/07/05 | by Jamie | Categories: Deep Thoughts

Dear newbie Aomori JETs,

In my continuing effort to help inform you about life in Aomori (and in my secret effort to discourage you from coming at all) I would like to present to you important information that they won't be telling you at the Tokyo or Aomori orientations. I apologize ahead of time if the following sounds at times like an angry BigDaikon diatribe, but I'm only trying to convey the things I wish people told me before I came here. Without further ado here are...

Jamie's 10 Secrets to Happiness in Aomori:

1. Shoes
Bring lots of them, especially if you wear a men's size 11 or higher. Good luck buying anything that fits you here. More importantly, bring lots of identical shoes. This way when you come to work in the morning you don't have to change your shoes if nobody is looking. Constantly having to take off my shoes everywhere I go has got to be my biggest pet peeve about Japan.

...



2. McDonald's
So you like sushi and tempura, and can't wait for authentic Japanese cuisine. Maybe you won't believe me now, but after a few weeks in Aomori you'll be dying for a Big Mac. Japanese people eat basically the same things for breakfast, lunch and dinner. This might work fine for them, but for a gaijin like you eating fish, rice and miso soup every day can get tired pretty quick. I've heard people around the office boast that Japan has the best selection of international cuisine in the world, but you'll quickly come to realize that such claims are far from the truth. Sure there are lots of things here that look and smell like Indian, Mexican or Italian food but when you taste them you'll soon discover that they are terribly bland and inexplicably covered in corn. Also, anything marked as "spicy" has about as much spiciness in Japan as its "mild" equivalent back home.

There is really only one restaurant that has authentic tasting foreign food in Aomori and that's McDonald's. Make sure to bring your own vinegar or sweet and sour sauce too. (Technically there's also Burger King, Popeye's and Taco Bell too, but they are only open to U.S. military personnel) If you want to survive the long, cold, depressing Aomori winter then check your anti-globalizationism at the door and chomp down on a Big Mac once in a while. You'll feel much better, trust me! At the very least, stop by Mos Burger. If you are vegetarian/vegan, then please direct all your iquiries here. By the way, I've never met a Japanese person that knows what a vegetarian is, let alone a vegan, but I've been told they do exist somewhere in Tokyo.

Please Note: Since food preference can vary greatly, and I'm a more finicky eater than most, please take what I said with a grain of salt. (No pun intended)

3. Sick leave
It may be mentioned in your contract, but schools just simply refuse to believe that sick leave exists. If you get sick and don't come to work, expect to be asked to use your vacation time. This has been a very contentious issue with JETs for a long time and apparently just starting this year, if you bring a receipt from a drug store demonstrating you bought medicine, you should be allowed to take a sick day. Still plan on arguing with your supervisor or vice principal for a while about it before they give you the okay. Don't even think about taking a day off due to "stress", or else this might happen to you.

4. Deodorant & Toothpaste
In case none of your research has already informed you of this, you can't buy strong deodorant or toothpaste in Japan. They have deodorant spray cans that are weak and basically useless. They have toothpaste here of course, but for some strange reason it doesn't contain Fluoride (so I've been told). Japanese toothpaste might be okay, I really don't know, but just to be safe I buy mine from abroad. Too bad I didn't mention this one in my old memo to Japan rant.

5. NHK Fees
Not even the most God fearing JETs among us pay this bill. The NHK fee is a door to door collected television fee, much like the BBC fee in England. Unlike the BBC fee however there are no consequences if you don't pay it. The best way to deal with this fee is simply to avoid the NHK fee collection man. If you ever make the mistake of talking to him, then you can always tell him that your employer pays the fee for you, even if you're not sure if it's true or not. If he comes back, just ignore him or tell him you have no money. In most cases if you keep brushing him off eventually he'll give up and leave you alone. Like a stray dog, if you pay him once then he'll just keep coming back again and again looking for more. Generally speaking it's a good idea never to answer your door ever, unless you know who's on the other side. There are also neighborhood taxes and other fees that people will try to take money from you for. Just ignore the doorbell, or if you want some fun, answer the door naked and watch the money collector turn red and run away. For more advice on dealing with the NHK man, I suggest reading this.

6. Cars
Unless you live in one of the 3 "big" cities, you absolutely need to get a car. Some brave souls try to get by without one even though they live in the boonies. I can't tell you much about their carless experience because nobody ever hears from them anymore. If you're looking to cut yourself off from society, and don't mind doing all your shopping at Circle K, then MAYBE you can get by without a car. Cars seem cheap to buy at first, but they are really quite expensive here once you take all the taxes and fees into account. Expect to pay about $1500-2000 a year on various taxes, your parking spot and insurance. If you're from America, expect to pay about twice as much for gas as you're used to. Most used cars in Japan have under 100K on them. If someone is trying to sell you their car with over that much mileage, little to no shakken and still wants over 200,000 yen for it, you're probably getting ripped off. Best place to look is the Aomori Listbot, since dealers charge quite a bit more than departing JETs. It might also be a good idea to wait until you get here before you buy your car. That way you can size up the seller and try to judge if he's an honest, upstanding vendor or just some dude who wants to pawn off a piece of crap Subaru with a muffler that's about to fall off.

7. Winter
Just watch the video I posted yesterday, or check out the photos on various Aomori blogs and you can get a pretty clear idea of what to expect. Unless you are from Siberia, I don't think you will have ever before encountered a winter like the ones we have here in Aomori. It's not terribly cold mind you (this is coming from a Canadian remember), but the snow, lord the snow! Expect to be always cold, all winter. Houses in Aomori have no insulation and your apartment will be heated by a single gas heater that is typically left off when you go out or go to sleep. If you like to sleep with the heater on, then I suggest buying a carbon monoxide detector, which by the way they don't have here either. If you come from a more tropical climate and have never seen snow before in your life, then I suggest reading David's blog before you board that plane for Japan.

8. Aomori AJET
Don't join. It's a big waste of money. Right Ewen? Seriously, don't join. You can still go to all the AJET binge drink-a-thons. Use the 30 bucks or whatever it costs and buy yourself something nice. Better yet, buy yourself 30 nice things at Daiso.

9. Don't Worry, Be Lazy
More likely than not, you will have lots of downtime at your job. This is quadruply so if you are a prefectural (high school) JET. Start a blog, write for Nore Sore (our local JET magazine), do your nails, play cards, read a book, watch movies or TV shows you downloaded from TorrentSpy.com, have a nap, do anything you want... nobody cares! Just whatever you do, and I can't emphasize this enough, DON'T CROSS YOUR LEGS AT YOUR DESK! If you cross your legs you look "lazy" and all the teachers will talk about you behind your back. Why? Beats the Hell out of me, but they will, so don't.

10. Exploring
Japan isn't just about manga, Hello Kitty and video games. Well, okay maybe about 95% of it is, but there is still a little more to it than that. Aomori has tons of mountainous hiking trails and ski slopes to explore. If you're like me and don't care much for exercise, then there are lots of cool ruins to raid, interesting stores to find, and many more treasures hidden deep in dark blue forests. After about 6 months in Aomori I had already seen more of the prefecture than most of the Japanese teachers I work with, including the ones that have lived here all their lives. After almost two years there's still plenty that I have yet to see.

Aren't I a nice guy for writing this handy tutorial for you lowly newbies? As you can guess I'm having a really dull day at the office once again. Oh well, back to sponging off the Japanese tax payer. Welcome to Aomori biotches!

Best of luck,
Jamie
Permalink

22 comments

Comment from: Malia [Visitor]
MaliaDude, the NHK man comes to my office to try to shame me into paying. Once I was on vacation and the office lady paid him out of my salary without my consent. Now I have to avoid the post office until the end of July to avoid the NHK man. Bastard.
06/07/05 @ 19:35
Comment from: Jamie [Member]
JamieWow, that's one hardcore NHK man.
06/07/05 @ 19:36
Comment from: Hugh [Visitor]
HughI'm sure these hints will help plenty of newbies, except this article should be called "how to live like Jamie". NHK man hasn't defeated me!
06/07/05 @ 20:03
Comment from: Steph [Visitor]
StephSomehow NKK tapped into my bank account and directly withdrawls their fee from my account. How come this doesn't happen to anyone else?
06/08/05 @ 10:21
Comment from: Kathryn [Visitor]
Kathryn"I can't tell you much about their carless experience because nobody ever hears from them"

WTF??? I`d say if you have a driving license then definitely get a car but I`ve got around just fine in my 3 years thank you very much and I live more in the boonies than most! Ali too!
06/08/05 @ 10:36
Comment from: Kathryn [Visitor]
KathrynHmmm, just noticed that I wrote that I `got around`....

Anyway, there is good foreign food in Aomori you muppet! If you want a good Indian I know places in both Aomori and Misawa that are authentic and yummy. Also, 1 Thai place in Aomori. If you ignore the potato and squid pizzas on the menu you can get good pizza in lots of places too!
06/08/05 @ 10:50
Comment from: Bob [Visitor]
BobWhy don't you just pay the NHK man?
06/08/05 @ 12:21
Comment from: David in TO [Visitor]
David in TODude, the NHK rocks. They have the raddest documentaries, and historical dramas.

Am I the only JET to have ever willingly paid the NHK man?
06/08/05 @ 13:33
Comment from: dan [Visitor]
dani always cross my legs when i read avoidinglife dot com at work.
06/08/05 @ 13:44
Comment from: Jamie [Member]
JamieHey Kat, does Ryota have a car? Considering that you pay all his bills I kind of doubt it. I don't know how you survive... but I guess you're right on the train line so it's not so bad for you.

For you newbies that don't want a car and will live in the boonies it also helps to get a boyfriend/girlfriend that has one.

Oh and yes, I forgot about Pizza Hut. That is the one and only other source of true American cuisine I will aknowledge.

By the way, "Muppet" has got to be my favorite British slang word. Which one am I most like do you think...Kermit or Fozzie perhaps?
06/08/05 @ 17:26
Comment from: Jamie [Member]
JamieSteph: I would close that account right away if I were you and demand to be paid in cash from now on.

Bob: I have a moral objection to paying for crappy Japanese TV.

David: Yes. In the history of JET you are the only person I know of that willingly pays him, or for that matter, enjoys Japanese TV programming.

Dan: Why's that? Does my site give you a boner?

Dave: Glad you dig the site. If you want to start a little 'biz-ness' in Japan I know a guy in Misawa named Tomo that you should meet. He'll hook you right up.
06/08/05 @ 17:32
Comment from: Nic [Visitor]
NicMy board of education were cool. They said if the NHK man turns up just tell him you don't have it.

I survived two years without a car, but my successors seem not to have been able to.
06/08/05 @ 17:43
Comment from: nate [Visitor]
nateIm in the bustling metropolis of aomori-shi and all, but amongst my semi-urban junior high kids, about 80% of them can come up with the word bejiterien when I tell them that I don't eat meat.

no one I've met has ever known a vegetarian, but my kids seem to have heard of it.

Also jaime, conspicuously absent from your free time suggestions is "study japanese"... maybe there's a good reason you can't stand japanese TV. Granted, it's lame, but NHK at least is less lame when you can understand it (I can't say the same for the private broadcasters).
06/09/05 @ 09:44
Comment from: Jamie [Member]
JamieI've met students that claim to be vegetarian, but after asking them "Do you eat meat?" I always seem to find that their definition of "vegetarian" is simply "eats lots of vegetables". Of course, I live in Noheji so...
06/09/05 @ 09:59
Comment from: Kathryn [Visitor]
KathrynMaybe you`d be one of the old geezers in the balcony, waldorf and what`s-his-name that just sit there and bitch about everything even though they`re enjoying the show really!

Rotter has a car, out front of his house, not going anywhere, but surprisingly still has it`s tyres (though punctured) and not up on bricks!

Nate! You only have to study Japanese cause you live in the big smoke! Try living in inaka and you pick it up through osmosis! Chances are you`ll end up sounding like a 90 yr old inbred like me though!

Also, Jamie, have to disagree on sick leave. I had a cold in March, tried to come back to school as by 3rd day I was going stir-crazy in my apartment (no computer/internet etc) and not even anything to do in my village, video rentals etc, really needed to get out so went to school and they told me to go home and not come in til the nxt week and 100% better. Maybe I smell or something? Or maybe they think foreigner germs are more dangerous that Japanese ones??
06/09/05 @ 10:14
Comment from: Jamie [Member]
JamieYeah, I thought Statler and Waldorf were pretty good options as well. I love that NHK now uses S-Club 7 as one of its English language learning shows, 'cause now I can hear Brits call each other "Muppets" all the time.

As for your sick leave situation, it certainly seems quite strange. Maybe they saw 'Rotter' and they are scared to do anything that might make you angry.
06/09/05 @ 12:48
Comment from: Ewen [Visitor]
EwenWhat are you talking about Jamie! AJET is amazing, and being a member will win you friends-a-plenty. Also, non-members are reminded that they will get a yearly kicking from those who have signed up. Next year's fees are a bargain, costing only a button to join.
06/09/05 @ 13:03
Comment from: Jamie [Visitor]
JamieI kind of enjoyed the kicking I got last year actually. As for next year's fees... if it really is only "a button" then perhaps it might be worth it, unless "button" is some kind of strange Scottish slang term for money. I'm hoping for big things next year under your esteemed leadership Ewen. I can't wait to see what you've got planned for Scotchtoberfest!
06/09/05 @ 13:04
Comment from: nate [Visitor]
nateYou have a j-boy kafryn. you could live in inaka just fine and not use japanese at all. look in the upper right hand corner of the page for a snapshot of living proof.

I'm also on the down with ajet team. As far as the rank and file jets who have their own thing going are concerned, ajet gives us two parties a year... and we have to pay for them seperately.
06/09/05 @ 13:48
Comment from: manda [Visitor]
mandajamie: i heard from the south african embassy the other day and apparently there's a saffer coming your way: so be prepared for a wide-eyed, large-footed snow virgin. he or she might display unaccountable longing for biltong and marmite and boerewors, and obsess about cricket or rugby. please do not mock them. instead, point them in my direction (we have a google group called SA Jets). and you can always tell them "jys mos a fokken dwelmsmisbruiker, ne", which is a famous south african expression of comfort.

ta.
06/10/05 @ 14:06
Comment from: Brad [Visitor]
BradWell, with the McD's statement, they should also know that they should eat as much fast food as they can while in Tokyo. Wendy's, Tony Roma's ribs, Pizza Hut, Hard Rock Cafe, etc.
06/10/05 @ 16:02
Comment from: Jamie [Member]
Jamiebiltong? marmite? boerewors? I have no clue that any of that is, but I do know where you can by bore meat.
06/10/05 @ 17:27
Avoiding life and teaching English in Noheji, Aomori, Japan

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